Just when we thought the watch industry had abandoned the "bigger is better" mentality, Breitling decided to temporarily set aside the retro elegance of its Premier Heritage collection and instead showcase the imposing grandeur of its new 44mm Super Chronomat watch. Bold and assertive, it perfectly embodies the Breitling style of the 1980s.
The Super Chronomat's overall design originates from a watch created in 1983 for the Italian Red Arrows aerobatic team (Frecce Tricolori), a time when sports watches were beginning to evolve into oversized "monsters." Its goal was to create a timepiece suitable for both cockpit and club occasions, maintaining a style consistent with early pilot's watches.
This watch was previously released as the Chronomater B01 42 Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition, which is now sold out. While inheriting the same design philosophy, these new watches offer a completely different wearing experience.
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The Super Chronograph B01 44 is not just about a 2mm increase in case thickness. The chronograph pushers are larger and more prominent than ever before, and the bezel has been upgraded to stainless steel with ceramic components for enhanced durability. It retains classic Chronomat elements—including interchangeable lugs at 3 and 9 o'clock—but these changes combine to create a timepiece that is more powerful and masculine than any previous Chronomat.
The new Super watch is available in five different styles, excluding straps or bracelets. This three-register chronograph is powered by the exceptional Breitling Caliber 01 movement and is offered in either a stainless steel case with a blue or black dial (including a matching bezel) or an 18K rose gold case with a captivating chocolate brown dial. All models feature contrasting silver subdials.
Model Numbers: AB0136251B1S1 (Black bezel, stainless steel case, black rubber strap), AB0136251B1A1 (Black bezel, stainless steel case, stainless steel bracelet), AB0136161C1S1 (Blue bezel, stainless steel case, blue rubber strap), AB0136161C1A1 (Blue bezel, stainless steel case, stainless steel bracelet), RB0136E31Q1S1 (Brown bezel, 18K red gold case, brown rubber strap), RB0136E31Q1R1 (Brown bezel, 18K red gold case, 18K red gold bracelet) | Case/Dial: 44mm diameter x 14.45mm thickness, stainless steel or 18K red gold | Water Resistance: 200 meters | Movement: Breitling Caliber 01, COSC certified, automatic winding, 47 jewels, 346 parts | Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) | Power Reserve: 70 hours | Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date display, 1/4-second chronograph, 30-minute chronograph, 12-hour chronograph | Strap: Stainless steel or 18K red gold Rouleaux bracelet, Rouleaux-style rubber strap
Super Chronomat 44 Quadrennial Calendar
Next are two calendar watches, one with a black or blue dial and rose gold trim. Both are powered by the Breitling Caliber 19 movement, offering a 42-hour power reserve. Frankly, these aren't my favorite Breitling watches this year; I prefer simpler chronograph designs. The highlight of these two watches is their quadrennial calendar, meaning they only need to be set in each leap year, instead of every 12 months like an annual calendar.
Model Numbers: I19320251B1S1 (Black bezel, stainless steel case, black rubber strap), I19320251B1A1 (Black bezel, stainless steel case, stainless steel bracelet), U19320161C1S1 (Blue bezel, stainless steel case, blue rubber strap), U19320161C1U1 (Blue bezel, stainless steel case, stainless steel and 18K red gold bracelet) | Case/Dial: 44mm diameter x 14.45mm thickness, stainless steel, 18K red gold and black or blue ceramic bezel | Water Resistance: 100 meters | Movement: Breitling Caliber 19, COSC certified, automatic chronograph movement, 38 jewels | Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) | Power Reserve: 42 hours | Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day of the week, date, month, moon phase; Chronograph: Vertical clutch, 1/4 second, 30-minute and 12-hour counters | Strap: Stainless steel Rouleaux bracelet or Rouleaux-style rubber strap
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Super Chronomat B01 44 (Reference No. AB0136251B1A2)
However, another strap is coming soon, and it's the real highlight. This black chronograph can also be paired with a Rouleaux strap, featuring a UTC module resembling a miniature clock at 6 o'clock. It's perhaps the most unique strap on the market.
If you're one of the few eager for Breitling to return to oversized watches, this should be one of the most anticipated new releases of the year. Personally, though, these new watches look interesting, but not the kind I'd like to participate in personally. Like street racing or going out without a mask.
All five watches offer two strap options. First is a stainless steel beveled bracelet, a classic of vintage watches and one of the most comfortable sports bracelets on the market. Its durability far exceeds its appearance. The second option is a rubber strap that looks almost identical. This is a thoughtful design, allowing you to maintain your unique style while enjoying a more comfortable wearing experience that complements the dial color better.
